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The North Anatolia Fault is one of the most active seismic zones in the world. The last big quake was in 1999 and was centered about 100 km east of Istanbul. We've felt mildly shaken once so far, during our 3-month visit here.

Beautiful Ottoman-era houses, like this one in Istanbul, are probably still standing only because they're wooden. Some have been renovated but most are in varying states of disrepair. It's become a bone of contention between UNESCO, which has declared parts of Istanbul a World Heritage Site, and the government of Turkey, which is responsible for the restoration.